If you're always on the lookout for the latest skin care gadget, you may have already tried face rollers, sculpting sticks, and skin scrubbers. And you might be curious about the red light masks you've seen making the rounds on social media.
Red light masks use low levels of light-emitting diodes, or LEDs, to stimulate skin cells, says Dr. Jennifer Sawaya, a dermatologist at US Dermatology Partners Scottsdale in Arizona.
"Red light is a type of visible light that has been clinically shown to rejuvenate the skin."
Instagramers and TikTokers claim that the masks, which make you look like a character from some sci-fi movie, can minimize wrinkles, smooth your skin and even improve acne. But these masks can be expensive, costing anywhere from $100 to thousands of dollars, and similar but stronger treatments are available at spas and dermatologists.
So do red light masks at home actually work? Sawaya says studies have shown that red light therapy can benefit the skin, but seeing results depends on regular use of the equipment. Here's what you need to know about red light masks.
What can red light masks do for your skin?
Red light therapy has been used for decades in a variety of treatments. NASA first started using it to promote plant growth in space in the 1990s and then to speed up wound healing. The light's ability to penetrate the skin was shown to help stimulate collagen and tissue growth.
As an antiaging treatment, low-level light therapy with red and infrared wavelengths can improve the way skin cells work, explains Dr. Heather Rogers, a dermatologist at Modern Dermatology in Seattle.
Cells absorb energy from light, which makes them more efficient at using oxygen and making compounds that cells use for fuel.
"With more fuel, cells become more active and better at doing their jobs, including DNA repair, collagen synthesis, and calming inflammation," she says.
As you age, you begin to lose collagen, a protein that gives your skin its structure and elasticity. Sun damage can also deplete it. Thus, increased collagen production can make wrinkles and fine lines less visible.
"Specifically, studies have shown that red light therapy can reduce the appearance of wrinkles, pigmentation, broken blood vessels, and improve skin elasticity and hydration."
How to get the best results from a red light mask at home
It can take time to see results from red light therapy, and it may not work for everyone, says Dr. David Kim, a dermatologist at Idriss Dermatology in New York City.
He recommends consistent use of a red light mask three to five times a week for at least a few months if you're interested in minimizing acne scars, treating acne, or evening out your complexion.
Masks are most effective when used on clean, dry skin, so the light can be well absorbed by the skin, Sawaya says. Sometimes, masks can dry out your skin, so Rogers suggests moisturizing afterward.
Are red light masks safe?
At-home LED masks are generally safe for most people, as they use relatively low levels of energy, Sawaya says.
However, if you have sensitive skin or are sensitive to light, you should avoid masks unless your doctor gives you approval.
Light therapy can also worsen melasma, a condition that causes spots to form on the skin, Rogers says. Visible light, including red and blue light, can also worsen hyperpigmentation or melasma for people with darker skin tones, Kim adds.
If you're using a red light mask every day and aren't getting the antiaging results you expect, or you've noticed dryness, pigmentation changes, or other skin changes, Kim suggests seeing a dermatologist. Doctors can recommend the best treatments based on your skin type and individual needs.
